Melbourne Darling Abroad – My top picks for Positano

The Amalfi Coast was my favourite seaside area of Italy. I stayed in Sorrento but the area can be quite pricey so I was also suggested that next time, for a quieter, less touristy area that will still allow for easy transportation around the Amalfi Coast to also try looking for accommodation in Salerno. While staying in Sorrento I did day trips to Pompeii, Positano and Capri. The Amalfi Coast was my next stop after finishing travelling through the Cinque Terre, and I am glad I did it this way around as while Cinque Terre was very pretty, I thought in particular, Positano and Capri were on another level was just taken away by the astonishing beauty of the Amalfi Coast.

Terrace views of Positano

Positano

My top picks for Positano:

Positano was extremely picturesque and relaxing. The strikingly colourful and dainty bougainvillea set against the clear blue ocean and pastel coloured patchwork wall of hillside homes is a truly stunning site reminiscent of the opulence and elegance that this wealthy seaside town exudes. Positano is a perfectly pretty town to stroll through and shop for handmade sandals and stylish beachwear, dine on creatively presented food, stop for a dip in the ocean and explore the hidden pathways and trails. The roads that lead to Positano are extremely narrow and windy. Unless you are a very experienced driver in Italy with these windy roads and are accustomed to the seemingly cavalier local Italian road rules as well as willing to tackle the restricted car parking available, I suggest catching a local coach or a ferry to Positano.

Picturesque Positano

Picturesque Positano

Enjoy exploring the town but also include a stroll beyond the bustling main streets with a walk across the ‘Sentiero degli Innamorati’ or Lover’s Path that leads from Spiaggia Grande (the main beach of Postiano) to the more secluded beach of Spiaggia del Fornillo. On the other hand, if you’re up for a more active hike, try the climb up the Path of the Gods, running along the mountain side with wonderful coastal views along the way.

Sentiero degli Innamorati / Lover's Path, Positano

Sentiero degli Innamorati / Lover’s Path, Positano

Stop in to Capricci for a slice of heart shaped pizza and a glass of wine. Alternatively, for beautiful waterfront views while you dine, head to Chez Black or Le Tre Sorelle. For a vegetable loaded fresh feast, try Casa e Bottega or for a romantic dinner high on top of the mountain, head to La Tagliata.

Heart shaped pizza from Capricci, Positano

Heart shaped pizza from Capricci, Positano

For a droolworthy and delicious refreshment, head to Ristorante Covo Dei Saraceni for a frozen lemon sorbet served inside of a lemon!

Lemon Sorbet from Covo Dei Saraceni, Positano

Lemon Sorbet from Covo Dei Saraceni, Positano

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Melbourne Darling Abroad – How to see Capri in a Day

Island of Capri, Italy

Island of Capri, Italy

When planning your trip to Capri, the first thing you should consider is whether you would like to include a visit to the Blue Grotto / Grotta Azzurra. It is advisable if you want to see the Blue Grotto to book it first thing and try and do it first thing in the morning (or check in the morning for tide times and the weather as the ability to enter the Blue Grotto is extremely dependent on the tide and weather so access times will change day to day.) There are a few different boats to take to Capri, I took the public ferry from where I was staying on the Amalfi Coast – in Sorrento. First things first, when you arrive in Capri, if you want to take a trip to the Blue Grotto, dart your way to join the line in the Marina as soon as you get off the ferry. If not, then trust me when I say do not waste any time on the ground level of Capri nearby the marina. The best and most beautiful way to see Capri is by heading straight to the very top of the island first, to Mount Solaro then spending the day making your way back down again. You will find this will be the least busy and this will be the least tiring method as there is lots of walking to be done exploring the island, and it is much easier to make your way down then try and make your way up the mountain.

First thing to do is make your way right to very top, to Mount Solaro. This involves 3 stages and 3 methods of transportation that will cost you €17.20 up and back (unless you want to walk but I sincerely suggest that if you only have the one day, save your soles and follow the below steps. Hang in there, I swear it’s worth every bit!)

Arriving at Capri by ferry

Arriving at Capri by ferry

  1. Marina Grande to Capri centre - When you arrive by boat to the island of Capri, you will arrive at the Marina Grande, from here make your way to the ticket sales offices and purchase a ticket to the Funicula. At a cost of €1.80, this railway cable cart is the fastest method to get you to the main centre of Capri, arriving att the Piazzetta.

 

Entrance to the Funiculare from Marina Grande

Entrance to the Funiculare from Marina Grande

  1. Capri to Anacapri – The Piazzetta is quite busy and filled with many high fashion stores, souvenir shops and touristy restaurants and cafes. But I recommend not spending much time here at first, as there is still a much prettier pocket of Capri awaiting. Once you reach the Piazzetta, purchase a bus ticket for €1.80 at the bus terminal in Capri located in Piazza Martiri d’Ungheria (along Via Roma near the Piazzetta). Take the 15 minute bus ride bus from Capri up to Anacapri. You will notice the buses here are tiny, fitting about 10-15 people in each, but luckily they are pretty quick and run regularly. My favorite part of Capri to explore was Anacapri. Stop by for a quick bite to eat or a short break to soak in the beautiful environment and then make your way up to Mount Solaro (as there is only one café on the top of the mountain with limited refreshments and facilities on the top of the mountain).

 

Island of Capri

Island of Capri

  1. Anacapri to Mount Solaro – The final stage is a climb to the top of Mount Solaro via the chairlift. Fasten yourself in for a breathtaking 12 minute ride with your feet dangling over rooftops and vegetable gardens as you ride up to the 589m ascent above sealevel. The price of the chairlift is €10 roundtrip or €7 one way and I believe it is worth every cent.

 

Mount Solaro Chair lift

Mount Solaro Chair lift

Once at the top you can enjoy the spectacular views above the clouds along the observation decks before making your way back down the chairlift. We decided to spend the majority of our time after this in Anacapri which was filled with local boutiques and independently owned stores run by locals as well as lots of limoncello and local produce.

My must-do list for Capri / Anacapri:

-         Take a boat ride to the Blue Grotto (I was unable to during my stay which is why I suggest making sure you check before you visit on the day)

-         View the Faraglioni sea stacks from the top of Mount Solaro

View of the Faraglioni rocks from the top of Mont Solaro

View of the Faraglioni rocks from the top of Mount Solaro

-          Try a refreshing Limoncello granita as your browse the stores and laneways in Anacapri

Limoncello store, Anacapri

Limoncello store, Anacapri

-          Find the Phoenecian steps and see how far you can manage to walk down (and back up!) the incredibly steep steps but don’t forget to stop and take in the astonishingly beautiful view.

The Phoenician Steps, Island of Capri

The Phoenician Steps, Island of Capri

-          Stop by Pizzeria Aumm Aumm for a slice of their lemon pizza and their Sfogliatelle Napoletane (flaky pastry shell filled with a creamy, sweet ricotta filling)

 

Lemon Pizza from Pizzeria Aumm Aumm

Lemon Pizza from Pizzeria Aumm Aumm

-          If you have time also visit the Villa San Michele

I would absolutely love to spend more than a day in Capri, so will definitely be planning a return trip to explore even more gems in the area.

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